T. Perks
57 posts
Joined: 19/11/2006 09:21:16
Location: Wotton under Edge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Wanted fan spacer
Wanted early fan spacer the 1" thick one made of alloy?
Posted: Jun 05, 2007 12:13 PM
Ollie
3 posts
Joined: 05/06/2007 19:12:46
Location: Axminster United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Hi
I think i have a few kicking around somewhere i will have a look tomoro and let you know
Posted: Jun 05, 2007 09:45 PM
Steve
25 posts
Joined: 27/11/2005 10:35:52
Location: northwich United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
re
I have had exactly the same problem with an HIF44, even with the spacer removed the carb still fouled the bulk head. I have used an "ultimate engine steady" the type with the threaded bar to push the engine slightly forward but found that if I did it more than just enough to get a piece of paper in the gap it caused the fan on the alternator to foul on my grille mounted spot lights. It has been a matter of very slight adjustments to get it in the right place and every time the steady is removed for any reason I have to go through the same process. Oh the joys of mini ownership!
Posted: Apr 14, 2011 08:05 PM
Rod
9 posts
Joined: 29/09/2006 23:37:33
Location: Halesworth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
MG Metro engine into Mini
Thanks for the response....
Yes, removing the water/oil cooler is easy leaving the same setup as a Mini but shouldn't I have some oil cooling -after all, Leyland thought it necessary for that engine in the Metro ??? Or are modern oils that much better that I don't need the extra cooling ???
Timing chain breather is VERY, VERY close to the fan, especially if the fan is fitted the right way round !!! (Virtually all Minis I have worked on in my dim and distant past, and very recently (big gap with other cars in the middle) have invariably had the fan on back to front). The plastic fans, with age, tend to develop a bend towards the block so the clearance will go down. The Calver article says "flatten" the breather canister OR fit a spacer between the fan and pulley. I'm not too keen on flattening anything and putting the spacer in puts the blades closer to the radiator matrix which doesn't appeal either !!!
If I can't use a 998 cover (THANKS FOR THAT INFO, I ASSUMED I COULD !!!) then I could cut off the canister and weld a plate over the hole, but do I need that breather ??? Is the one I could use at the other end not enough ???
Thanks,
Rod.
Posted: Mar 12, 2007 12:38 PM
Thanks again, sorry I haven't picked up the thread for a while.
The reason I was initially against using a spacer/shim between pump pulley and fan was because it makes the fan closer to the radiator core.
However, after rummaging through my boxes of old Mini bits for fans and before discarding the warped ones I have noticed two things...
If fitted the right way round they seem to warp towards the engine (logical I suppose as heat combined with the reverse thrust from pushing air from the engine side to the radiator and out through the wing would slowly bend them that way) and the more warped they are, the more they foul the breather (if fitted with no spacer).
However, more imortantly, I have two distinctly different thicknesses of fan... same multiblade type, same number of blades, but different in thickness so one would be very close to the radiator core if spaced out from the pump, and the other wouldn't !!!
Some of my boxes of bits date back many, many years so I don't know which is the newer version.
Posted: Mar 29, 2007 02:22 PM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Classic mini gearchange / cooling problem
it will either be remote or wand. in either case i think u swing stick across to passenger and up. you only have to lift to get reverse on rod boxes (74 on). as for thermostate to control rad fan, you either get a raditator with thermostate whole in bottom as used on minis 1275 1990 on, or you get a alloy output water thing that goes on head with thermostate screw hole, spacers are avalible that do the same, or make a fitting to go into pipe.
Posted: Oct 17, 2007 04:34 PM
Tim
28 posts
Joined: 07/04/2005 16:50:12
Location: Woodford Green United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Cooling - Six blade fan question.
Hello mate, Im running the standard pulley and with two spacers so the fan clears the cylinder head etc. It really isnt much noisier as the revvy nature of the A series engine and the intake from my twin K&Ns drowns most noise out. The only problem Ive had is getting it to fit clear as it is slightly thicker than the plastic fan. Regards Tim
Posted: Aug 16, 2005 10:52 AM
a. mericanminifreak
183 posts
Joined: 02/11/2007 23:17:14
Location: rosbach v.d.hohe Germany
Fanbelt pulley Removal
if you are talking about where the bolts go into as in the part that is permently attached to the water pump that is where the actual pully sits on and there are also spacers after the pully that are there to space your fan from your cooler evenly. if that helps
cheers
Posted: Mar 23, 2008 09:59 PM
J. Clarke
1985 mini 25 998 100bhp engine help
iv also considered a secondary cooling system mounted a bit like an oil cooler, i was thinking of using a car heater matric. i was planning on having outlet from left side of head where heater pipe comes out and to have it plumbed so it comes out there then out back round behind/above the engine and then connect to lower pipe at right of engine where heater normally connects. this system cound have a valve to control its flow to improve winter running or could be left open and no holes would be reqired in thermostate/no bypass pipe would be reqired from water pump. the heater could be connected from a spacer plate fitted under thermostate housing as used on later mini (90's). this could then connect the return could connect to t peace and join the 2ndary rad. that was my idea that i never got around to trying. i dont think a secondary pump would be nessary for the flow as heaters dont use them. alot simpler to have good 4 core rad and 2ndary fan inside arch it wouldnt overheat if mixture is right hopefully anyway. il add more later got to go now also be warned ur car i think will use 1/2" heater tubing later 80's cars use 15mm
Posted: Oct 06, 2008 04:43 PM
J. Lyon
214 posts
Joined: 11/12/2006 18:57:13
Location: Colorado springs United States
Yet another squeal problem!
Okay, so I had a water pump going bad, so I replaced everything in the cooling system except the radiator(hoses, water pump, thermostat and housing) and after filling her with new coolant there is this god awful squeal coming from that area. I already checked the belt, it's not loose. The only thing that makes sense is that I perhaps put the fan spacer on the wrong side of the pulley and it has put the fan to close to the radiator and as the blades skimming the fins on the radiator it is causing a squeal. However the problem with that theory is that the squeal goes away after a second or two of steady throttle. And, yes, it does increase with rpm's. I'm at a loss as to what the problem is. And advice is needed and welcome!
-James
Posted: Jan 25, 2008 04:52 PM
David Williams
1 posts
Joined: 17/05/2006 13:23:32
Location: Lancaster United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Draining coolent system
If its a 93 Cooper your in luck. *** Before starting this Job obtain a new fan switch seal Part No. CDU2334 *** The fan switch is located in the bottom front corner of the radiator. Remove the Grill, disconnect the wiring from the switch and locate the plastic retaining cli[p at the bottom of the radiator. You need to rotate this to release the clip. Carefully ease out the switch. I use thin nose pliers on the spade terminals to carefully release it. It is just pushed into place. Have a large bucket ready when the switch comes out !!. Once the system is empty you need to remove the switch seal from the hole in the radiator. Root around in there with a small screw driver to winkle it out. It will be stuck in there. Flush the system cleatr. Whilst I've got the system empty I also take time to remove the tyhermostat housing and spacer, Take care here the bolts have a habit of freezing into the block or housing. DO NOT USE EXCESSIVE FORCE TO REMOVE THEM THEY WILL SHEAR !!!!. If stuck use a liberal quantity of penetrating oil and take care. If the bolts show signs of age replace them and apply Copper grease to the full length when reassembling.
To Replace the fan switch push the new seal full home into the radiator making sure its all square. Lube the switch with a small amount of washing up liquid and push home into the seal. You should then be able to get the plactic seal back on and rotate it to lock in place. Job Done
Posted: May 05, 2016 11:28 AM
Gidi
5 posts
Joined: 08/07/2005 07:26:15
Location: Kochav-Yair Israel
still overheating
Just untill I compleat the issue of adding the oil cooler, I had a problem where my car got over heating gradually but surely. I had a metal 6 blade fan which was as goot as acupuncture to a dead man. So I replaced it with the 11 blade plastic fan and added a spacer to get the dan closer to the rad. Now, when on idle the car keeps arround 95c and even if it overheats and I stand in place it manages to bring the temp back down to 95c (slowly) which I never had before and is the only good news here. on the other hand as soon as I start driving the car overheats. the rad is clean and was replace several months back. I even added a temp sensing unit that automatuicaly starts the electric fan arround 80c. H E L P ! ! !
Posted: Oct 19, 2005 06:49 AM
Bobster
71 posts
Joined: 23/08/2007 15:49:09
Location: Barnsley United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
The year of the car is 1987, and the model is a Cooper, with a 1275cc A+ engine, i believe it is the pulley below the water pump and not the thermostat (sorry), i have uploaded the image to help as the engine is currently out of the car, sat on a trolley at the back of the garage.
The picture shows the fan is off, but the pulley and spacer still attached to the engine.
Posted: Jan 13, 2008 03:14 PM
mark
397 posts
Joined: 18/08/2005 14:01:28
Location: Hitchin United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
we shall do the easy one first, change the oil filter housing with your origonal, but i'm sure that if you remove the mg filter housing, the water cooler bit just spins off and you are left with a normal filter housing and you can attatch your filter, thats the easy answer
the second one well i did not think there was an issue with the breather on the timing chain, i have had 3 metro engines in my mini cooper, and never had a problem with any of them fouling the timing chain breather, you cannot fit a normal mini one on at the plate holding the cover is a different shape.
have you got a spacer fitted between the fan and the water pump ?
Posted: Mar 12, 2007 12:04 PM